Michael Dangeli at Aboriginal Potlatch Supper, VCC.
Article & photos by Lenora A. Hayman.
The Canadian Culinary Federation Convention for Cooks and Chefs (CCFCC) in Vancouver from 10-16 June 2011, included promoting both nationally and internationally,Canadian Aboriginal and Métis cuisine.
On Monday evening, the public were hosted by Chef Ben Genaille, his Vancouver Community College Aboriginal Culinary class and the College’s other culinary class to an Aboriginal Potlatch Supper. Chef Ben Genaille was born in Russell, Manitoba and has honed his fine-dining culinary skills at Le Crocodile, Piccolo Mondo and the Mandarin hotel, now called the Metropolitan .Ben was the Chef Educator at the Northwest Community College in Terrace BC prior to joining the faculty at the Vancouver Community College. After 12 months of full-time training, not only shall we see his grads working in hotel kitchens, restaurants and cruise ships but also their skills will showcase elegant Aboriginal cuisine.
While co-leaders Michael Dangeli and Mique’l Askren and the Git Hayetsk dance group(“People of the Copper Shield” whose ancestoral villages are located in Southeast Alaska) entertained us, wearing huge transformation masks, we gourmet-grazed carrying cedar plank plates, amongst bountiful tables. The bubbly Eau Vivre Gewurztraminer and Tangled Vines 3 Blancs paired well with the traditional smoked salmon with parsnip dumpling and pumpkin sauce. The lemon intensity of the Haywire Pinot Gris was appropriate with the spot prawns poached in a bentwood box with sweet onion and garlic cream. Two BC wines were matched with each of the courses. There were spiced seafood cakes with corn puree and dandelion salad, smoked trout, apple salad young cress, rabbit sausage, King oyster ragout and blueberry pine nut chutney. The Raven Ridge Ice Cider and Tugwell Mead made from honey was a nice touch with the cinnamon bannock fritters with brown sugar and cranberry sauce.
On Wednesday, at the Renaissance Vancouver Harbourside, Chef Andrew George, the instructor at the Métis Skills and Education Centre’s Culinary Arts Program in Abbotsford with his team and students displayed their talents with a Métis Nation Luncheon.
Andrew George Jr. was born in Smithers B.C. and did the Core/Short order, Institutional Camp Cooking at the Vancouver Vocational Institute( now the Vancouver Community College) and also the BCIT Apprenticeship program. He was the head grill cook at the First Nations Restaurant in the Expo’86 Folk Life Pavilion and worked at the Chateau Whistler Resort and the Vancouver Four Seasons Hotel.
In 1992 Andrew George and 4 others were the first Native Canadian Haute Cuisine team to compete in the World Culinary Olympics in Frankfurt, Germany. After his students complete the 16 week program, they can apply for an entry-level position or apprenticeship in the food service industry.
Eight food stations featured large Pacific Sardines grilled with garlic and olive oil served on a crostini and micro greens with a 5 citrus sauce reduction and a Pacific North West Potlatch Feast of pan seared scallops, arctic char, halibut, oyster and local prawns finished with a bouillabaisse style broth served with rice and seaweed. There were also musk ox and braised rabbit wraps, a wild game charcutterie station with game sausage, buffalo pemmican, pates and terrines. The pan seared pacific tuna was served on a baby dandelion, watercress salad with water chestnuts. The stir fry of venison was tender and served on noodles. Also offered were clam fritters, juniper duck canapés and a field berry bannock cobbler with sabayon and whipped soapallie berries. The New Zealand Two Islands Sauvignon Blanc with its gooseberry and grassy flavour was a fitting accompaniment.
Honey Tomma & Beverly Saul at Raven's Landing, Klahowya Village, Stanley Park.
I was delighted to hear that from May16- Sept11, 2011 the Aboriginal Summer Klahowya Village in Stanley Park with their artisans, dance performers and story telling had returned for a 2nd year.
I boarded the Spirit Catcher train for the 13 minute journey into the Stanley Park forest and the narration of the Aboriginal story of “How the Raven Saved the Sun”with help from his friends.As we chugged along, actors portrayed the Evil Chief, Princess Klahowya, Lil’ Bear, Wise Frog and Eagle in a version of the myth.
In the beginning the world was completely dark. A pure, white raven(trickster) transformed himself into a hemlock needle which Princess Klahowya, the daughter of the evil chief, swallowed while drinking from the stream. She gave birth to the Evil Chief’s grandchild who persuaded him to open his bentwood boxes, one of which held the sunlight. The grandchild transformed himself back to a raven, tossed the sun through the smoke-hole in the ceiling and he too escaped through that opening. However the raven’s feathers were scorched and today the raven has remained black.
Greg Witzky, Beverly Saul and her daughter Honey Tomma, from Chase BC, run the Raven’s Landing feast house at Klahowya Village. Raven’s Landing was named after Raven, (the brother of Honey and son of Beverly and James Tomma), who unfortunately died on April 17, 2009. James Tomma, in honour of his son, etched Raven’s profile on their sign and Beverly and Honey’s T-shirts show the broken wings of a raven signifying Raven’s flight as an angel towards heaven.
In 1995 Beverly Saul trained in the Malaspina College Culinary Arts Program (now the Culinary Institute of Vancouver Island) and in 1996 progressed to the Commercial Baking Program. Greg Witzky and Beverly Saul operate the 100% First Nation owned Pierre’s Point Campground, bordering Shuswap Lake, 7.7 kms W. of Salmon Arm on the Trans-Canada Highway.
Beverly explained that bannock dough must rest awhile to rise and become lighter prior to frying or baking. I ate a delicious BBQ’d salmon bannock while other tourists were enjoying buffalo bannock, bannock hot dogs and sweet potato fries. Bannock also known as fry bread is now a Canadian food thanks to the Scottish fur traders who introduced the baking powder type of scone. Eating a warm, deep-fried piece of bannock dipped in cinnamon and sugar is a good place to start learning about another culture.
All 4 photos by Lenora A. Hayman