As I write this the music of Brahms wafts gently around my office. Having just returned from the Czech Republic, perhaps Bohemian-born composer Gustav Mahler’s work would be more appropriate. Either way, music – like theatre, red-tile roofs and excellent cheap beer – strike me as cornerstones of daily life in this small country that proudly brandishes a long, dramatic history.
Consider Český Krumlov, for example. The mixture of Gothic and Renaissance architecture along the cobblestone streets vies for attention. Towering above looms the impressive castle after which the town in named. The Vlatava River, a natural divider for the hilly town, meanders tranquilly through this classic middle European tableau.
The town is one of 12 Czech UNESCO World Heritage sites. The substantial castle complex – which is well-worth exploring – houses a superbly preserved operational Baroque Theatre dating back to 1766.
Until this visit to southern Bohemia, I confess that – despite my interest in theatre – the only thing I knew about Baroque Theatre was that such an art form existed.
It was, therefore, a pleasure to meet the effervescent power behind the scenes, Castle Theatre Director, Dr. Pavel Slavko.
With infectious enthusiasm he emphasized the uniqueness of the fully functioning wooden machinery, ornate stage and backdrop intricacies, and the company’s pride in a collection of 600 fragile costumes – some of which date back to the 17th century. In Baroque Theatre, lighting is critical and illusion is everything. Ropes, pulleys and winches maneuvered by a team of 35 experts under the stage facilitate complex scene changes. Wind, rain, and the sounds and moods of the elements, are replicated with an assortment of huge carefully crafted wooden props. Clearly this theatre is loved, respected, and, we are told, very fragile.
The Baroque Arts Festival Český Krumlov takes six months to plan. It was established in 2008, and takes place each September. Reputedly performances are unique experiences perfectly synchronized by technicians and artists. Due to climate controls, theatre tours during the summer are strictly limited to advance on-line bookings. For more information e-mail info@ckrumlov.cz
If Baroque isn’t your bag, fear not, the surroundings aren’t short of tourist entertainment. It’s a walkable town. Narrow winding streets dotted with assorted shops and cafes offer much to explore. The river lures many to admire the scene by canoe, or do as we did – discover a riverside park were two student buskers were taking the opportunity to practice their flutes. A park gate sign indicated that everything was forbidden – except music.
I’d like to have visited the Romany gypsy cafe, but music in only featured on Saturday nights.
Český Krumlov is a about an easy three-hour drive through attractive pastoral countryside south of Prague. Although it can be a day trip, I was there during an uncharacteristically hot week, and overnighted the Hotel Bellevue at the gates of the old town. Although the service was extremely genial, the rooms and showers were small, minus bedside clocks, and, like most accommodation outside Prague, sans air conditioning.
For more information go to http://www.czechtourism.com
Ursula Maxwell-Lewis is a freelance British Columbia writer and photographer.