QUEBEC CITY: I’m being laced into layered petticoats, a voluminous forest green 17th century brocade skirt, and a fitted jacket with elegant duchess sleeves. Luce, a talented costume designer, wrestles with yards of laces behind me. “Lean over. We’re aiming for voluptuous,” she instructs. Finally, we settle for “that’ll do”. A rose choker, matching reticule (bag), red leather shoes, and a jaunty grey feather (almost nailed to my scalp) complete my ensemble.
I’m to attend the 19th annual Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France (New France Festival) Lords and Ladies Ball at the Salle des Promotions at the Séminaire de Québec.
It’s early evening, an acceptably genteel time for nobility to appear in public. Our transportation, six horse-drawn carriages, is at the Chateau Laurier entrance.
Elegant and stately, our sun-drenched cavalcade winds leisurely between Lower Quebec City’s famous historic stone buildings.
Twenty-first century sidewalk traffic is clearly caught off-guard as we pass through Old Quebec City’s stone fortifications. People smile, wave, snap pictures. Children’s expressions are a delight. Doing our best to remain in character we smile, bow, nod and wave.
I rather envy bystanders admiring the full impact of our colourful and impromptu parade.
Upon arrival at the Ball, I’m surprised and delighted to find that 80 American ‘Outlandish Gatherings’ clan members – fans of author Diana Gabaldon’s ‘Outlander’ series- are also among the guests. Gabaldon has been a keynote speaker and workshop presenter at the Surrey International Writers’ Conference for over 15 years. I’m impressed with their fabulous clothes, enthusiasm, and knowledge of Outlander trivia. They’re impressed to know I’ve met their favourite author.
“Why Quebec City for your gathering?“ I ask.
“It was closer than France, plus we like the low Canadian dollar,” they tell me.
Claire and Jaimie, key Outlander characters, are crossing the channel in book nine, hence the added appeal.
During the evening King Louis commands us to dance, eat, drink, and make merry. Being loyal subjects we cheerfully oblige.
As midnight approaches a bus – mundane transportation compared to our elegant Calèches du Vieux-Québec arrival – returns us to our hotel.
Back at the Chateau Laurier a fellow time-traveller and I realise ladies’ maids weren’t supplied with our rented gowns. Unlacing our intricate 16th century clothing takes time and patience. Room service takes on a new meaning. Oh, where IS Anna from Downton Abbey when I need her?
The next day, Stephan Parent, New France Festival Celebration General Manager, tells me that plans are afoot to reenact the original trans-Atlantic voyage for the August 2016 event. Passengers will be direct descendants of original settlers. How, and when, they will be selected has not yet been announced. By the sound of it, it will definitely be an event you won’t want to miss – or perhaps apply for if your ancestors were among those settlers.
On the Saturday I don my finery (with assistance). Despite record temperatures, I confidently sally forth. Clearly the costume rental business is booming. Bowing and curtseying to my fellow ‘villagers’, I wend my way along streets flanked by grey stone buildings worthy of their UNESCO status.
Established in 1608 at the St. Lawrence River estuary, Quebec City is divided into equally historic Upper and Lower towns. Armed with a Quebec City and Area Passport for free museum admissions, an orange Le Bus Rouge bracelet for occasional transportation, plus a couple of funiculaire passes (an easy rock-face glide up to the Chateau Frontenac in Old Town) I’m focussed on the Old Port. Flashing my $12 collectable sailing galleon medallion, I choose a complimentary raspberry crème glacée and admire the wide assortment of food, lace-making, craft demos, children’s art activities and duelling demonstrations.
At the end of the pier I discover Quebec Family History Society genealogists. The society web address is www.qfhs.ca if your family roots are French.
Visitors from Poland, the Middle East, Ireland, the US, and Germany stop me to ask about my costume as I make my way through the city. We laugh and we share photo ops. I’m going miss being a celebrity. Perhaps I should keep the costume…
If you go: 2016 New France Festival information can be found on the web at www.quebecregion.com.
Ursula Maxwell-Lewis is a British Columbia writer and photographer. She can be contacted at utravel@shaw.ca