I discovered the best way to enjoy the downtown waterfront and parliament areas of Wellington, New Zealand’s capital city at the south-western tip of the North Island, is on foot. I reported at the i-Site Visitor Centre in Civic Square for their daily 10:00am-2 hr. walk and was thrilled to have Marcia Isles, a most informative and enthusiastic guide show me her home city.
We strolled along Cuba St. Mall with its Bucket Fountain, a series of buckets that fill with water and tip on to a pool and when “it’s windy Wellington” sprays people popping into the cafés and retail stores.
Located across Wakefield St. in Civic Square is the old Town Hall, housing the Mayor’s office, the Michael Fowler Centre and Convention Centre, home of the NZ Symphony Orchestra, and the City to Sea Bridge with stunning public sculptures created by Paratene Matchitt. Te Ika Maui, the fish of Maui, portrays the legend of Maui fishing up the North Island, with the bridge representing the fish’s tail and the Civic Square, the fish’s body.
There are also 2 birds to the south opening their wings in welcome. Maori believe the birds brought the sweet potato or kumara to NZ (Aotearoa). Opposite on the north side are 2 wooden whales or the legendary sea monsters (taniwha) where you may sit.
Sparkling in the sun, was Tanya Ashken’s huge, white Albatross sculpture and fountain.
Along the waterfront, The Wellington Writers’ Walk has incorporated Typographer and Graphic Designer, Catherine Griffith’s 19 sculptures of text and quotations from well-known writers, such as Katherine Mansfield, James K, Baxter and Denis Glover, associated with Wellington.
On the 10th. April 1968, during a terrible storm, the TEV Wahine, a NZ Union Company ferry, capsized near Steeple Rock at the entrance of Wellington Harbour, resulting in the deaths of 53 people. The Wahine fore-mast stands as a memorial in Frank Kitts Park.
On the waterfront is a plaque with thanks from the Polish community to the Government and New Zealanders who welcomed on Oct.31, 1944, 732 Polish refugee children aboard the USS General Randall. The children lived at the Polish Children’s Camp in Pahiatua and became respected and distinguished NZ citizens.
The Water Whirler, designed by Len Lye, was installed by the Len Lye Foundation, on the pier off Frank Kitt’s Park, after his death. The hollow, central tube has nozzles on its exterior, to allow the water to pump up from below and circulate out of the tube in wave-like designs. Len Lye’s kinetic art refers to sculptures and mobiles that move naturally or by machine.
A dramatic new sculpture of 9 kina-shaped (Maori for sea urchin) shells of varying sizes with the biggest being 3 metres in diameter had just been installed. In NZ the kina is a delicacy, traditionally eaten raw.
The $375,000 NZD red “lobster loos’ or public toilets on the waterfront are functional and certainly have an artistic flare!
The Meridian building, NZ’s 1st Green Star rated building, is unique with the horizontal slats or louvers on the floors facing the sheds, angled to admit light and air. The building is constructed from partially recycled cement, has solar heating and rainwater harvesting to collect water for use in the toilets.
The Museum of Wellington City & Sea, housed in the historic 1892 Bond Store shows highlights of 20th Century Wellington.
The Nikau is the only species of palm endemic to NZ. Ian Athfield sculptured 15 stylized copper, zinc and steel Nikau palm trees, 9 of which structurally support the Wellington City Library and 6 free-standing Nikau palms are in the Civic Square.
Don’t miss the Old Bank Shopping Arcade on Lampton Quay which is built over the remains of the 3 masted sailing vessel Plimmers Ark that was discovered during the 1997-1999 renovations of the former head office of the Bank of NZ. The beautiful, musical clock suspended from the banking chamber opens to reveal animated scenes, recounting the history of the arcade.
The Old Government Building, built in 1876, was the first smoke free building in the world and the largest wooden building in the Southern Hemisphere. It resembled an Italian stone palace. Initially it housed the entire Wellington based Civil Service but by 1990 the building was vacant. Restoration took place from 1994-1996 but the Kauri timber could not be duplicated, since NZ’s remaining Kauri forests are protected. Now the Victoria University Law Department occupies the building.
The Beehive, reminiscent of a traditional beehive, is the Executive wing of New Zealand’s Parliament building, housing the Cabinet room and Prime Minister’s offices. Parliament House with the Debating Chamber
is the Neoclassical building next door.
My guided tour was over, but Marcia kindly drove me to the Wellington Airport, renamed “the middle of middle earth” to gasp at the 13 metre (46ft) sculpture of Gollum, from Peter Jackson’s first Hobbit film “ an Unexpected Journey”, suspended from the ceiling. Gollum makes a great “photo op” as he tries to catch three 4-metre fish amidst the bubbles.
I took a public bus back to the waterfront in the city, to visit Te Papa Tongarewa, the National Museum and Art Gallery of New Zealand.. I learned that the saying,“ a cloud, a cloud, a white cloud, a long white cloud” is attributed to Kuramorotine, wife of the legendary Pacific Voyager Kupe, on sighting in 925AD New Zealand or Aotearoa, the Land of the Long White Cloud!
I only had an hour, so I headed for level 4, and was enthralled at the intricate, Maori carving on the magnificent 1820-1840AD Teremoe canoe prow and the Te Takinga Pataka traditional storehouse.Also on display were traditional Maori musical instruments, such as the nose flute and conch shell trumpet and a Kahu Kiwi feather cloak. So much to see and so little time. Haere ra and goodbye. I shall be back!